Postcards from... Cuba – 1 – First impressions
Discovering Cuba is an amazing experience and a feast for the eyes. What struck me first is the colors.
Bright, vivid, joyful colors everywhere, from the porches of rural homes...
[Version française de cet article ici]
... to the streets of Trinidad.
In comparison, our world seems so bland!
Then, Cuba offers the amazing feeling of traveling back in time, to the 1960s...
... or even before, in cities...
... as well as in rural areas, which have barely been touched by mechanization.
The impressive and elegant colonial architecture, pristine in the few carefully restored historical centers (even though their marshmallow colors is a clear giveaway that they have been "updated")...
... quickly turns into lively homes more representative of the Cuban culture just a few block away from the small touristic perimeters...
... and, a little bit further afield still, historical buildings turn into vibrant decay reminiscent of post-apocalyptic sets.
As you may have already noticed, Cuba is also a paradise for admirers of old cars. American cars from before the US embargo (1962) have been lovingly maintained, and, as they are prohibited from leaving the island (like most of the population), they represent a large proportion of the relatively small number of cars on the streets (along with Soviet era Trabants, which frankly don't command as much attention or admiration...)
Sometimes, as their owners proudly claim, they are in even better condition than when they first arrived in Cuba, as they have been updated with the latest metallic paints, disc brakes, powerful sound systems, catchy LED lights, etc.
Unsurprisingly, they draw a lot of attention from tourists, and the most beautiful ones are typically high-end taxis eager to take you for a spin around the city.
That's incredibly romantic, and has not been missed by this "just married" young couple.
Another aspect that immediately struck me is... the complete absence of advertisement, anywhere in Cuba.
Well, that's not entirely true, if you count political propaganda for the Cuban revolution, and the cult of personality for its heroes, Fidel Castro and Che Guevara in particular.
For this part of the article, cue the song "Hasta Siempre Commandante", in its modern and popular version by Nathalie Cardone, or, for a glimpse of present day propaganda, this more traditional version] - but make sure you come back to this article 😉
The propaganda is everywhere, and not particularly subtle.
Along the roads ["Patria o Muerte ¡Venceremos!" - "Homeland or Death - We Will Win!"]...
... on city walls, grand ["Hasta la Victoria Siempre" - "Ever Onward to Victory", or "Until the Final Victory"]...
... medium in size, but just as megalomaniac ... ["Che - Caballerio Sin Tacha y Sin Miedo" - "Che, Knight Without Fear and Without Fault]
... or even on modest neighborhood walls ... ["Yo Soy Fidel" - "I Am Fidel"]
.... and even in the most unlikely places, like the Che's iconic effigy on this hairdresser's apron or on this young woman's t-shirt!
I have never seen the official party ideology questioned, except once, still quite subtly, on this wall of Habana Vieja:
[For the story of Alberto Korda's mythical and iconic "Guerillero Heroico" picture, see this Smithsonian article, and this other great one on Imaging Resource]
Cubans struck me by their dignity,
kindness,
Although a few wealthy Cuban families thrive ...
... with personnel at their service, reminiscent of the colonial era ...
... and the educational system is apparently excellent ...
... enabling one of the highest levels of literacy in the world (over 99%) ...
... Cuba is overall a very poor country.
In the state run shops, coupons are exchanged for rations of essential items such as bread, rice, beans, sugar, coffee, etc.
Still, shortages are frequent, and queues often form in front of stores.
The shops are very different from what we are used to in our Western countries.
Each sells very few items, and choice is virtually non-existent.
Meat is a rare, expensive delicacy, available at little butchers and the occasional market - neither of which would meet our expectations.
A large part of trade takes place on the street, where pretty much anything can be found, from veggies...
... to fruit ...
... school supplies, lollipops ...
... pipes ...
... and watch repair services.
Rum, another key ingredient of Cuban life, is also sold and drunk on the street.
The way locals experience it ...
... is a far cry from the treatment we tourists get.
Cubans deal with scarcity and adversity with amazing creativity and resourcefulness.
For young people, like in most countries, being "cool" and stylish is extremely important, both for girls...
... although the results are sometimes hit and miss :)
In Cuba as well, Western brands are a huge status symbol...
... and being in shape is taken very seriously, typically with rather impressive results.
Possibly even more than the rest of the world, Cubans have a love-hate relationship with their dominating neighbor the USA.
Although some are clearly in awe...
... others are a lot more realistic.
Sound, music and dance play a central role in Cuban life...
... everywhere, and especially on the streets.
If older generations tend to focus on traditional music like son, cha cha, mambo and what became salsa, younger folks prefer the reggaeton beats.
The music and dance is a key draw for tourists as well, and opportunities to mingle with locals ...
Sports are important too, and football/scoccer is huge, both as a practice...
... and as a spectacle. The FC Barca has a huge following, and the European games are watched everywhere.
In another category, playing dominoes is a major activity as well, and games often ignite passion in the streets.
Finally, Cuba is also a land of amazing scenery,
and paradise beaches - making it, in my opinion, a fantastic destination.
I will conclude this first article on Cuba with words of wisdom on a garage door in Trinidad:
"The richest person is not the one who has the most, but the one who needs the least."
"The happiest people are not those who have the best of everything, but those who make the best of what they have."
A perfect summary of my Cuban experience.
You liked reading this article? Please share it! Thank you! – and comments are always welcome.
And if you liked it, you will probably also enjoy my other articles on Cuba:
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| A trip back to the 1950s in present day Havana, | Amazing nature in the West: Viñales & Cayo Levisa island. | Back to the 19th century & amazing nature – Trinidad & area, incl. Cienfuegos, the Escambray range, and the Valley de los Ingenios | Santiago de Cuba, the rebel of the South East |
Stay tuned, more to come!
Didier.
Comments
You should really quit your job and just travel shoot pictures and then amaze people as you do EVERY time. Fantastic pictures and commentary.
Tantôt les photos comme les textes, ils montrent un pays qui cherche/maintient sa dignité en dépit d'agressions politiques, économiques et culturelles...
Bravo!
Patria o muerte venceremos!
In the meantime: I visited Havana, Viñales, Cayo Levisa, Cienfuegos, Trinidad and the valley de los Ingenios, the Escambray mountain range (including Guyanara), Cayo Iguana (a.k.a Cayo Macho), and Santiago de Cuba. I would have liked to visit other places as well, like Camaguey, but my travel circumstances didn't enable me to. What impressed me the most was the resilience, creativity, energy and kindness of Cuban people. The most challenging aspect was... too much to see and experience, too little time! Also, the frustration of not being able to help much. I wish I had come with another suitcase full of essentials like school supplies, soap, etc., to give away. I think the most "different" aspect from the other countries I have visited is the fact that in Cuba there is SO much to see and experience, so amazing, across so many dimensions: culture, nature, history, vibe, "time capsule", scenery/visual stimulation, music/dance, etc., in a relatively small amount of space.